Growing Loganberries

TYPE AND AGE OF CANES

Buy one-year-old virus-free canes with a good root system.

PLANTING

Plant loganberries about 6 in. deep and 8 to 12 ft. apart in November, early December or in March. Spread the roots out carefully, replace the soil and tread down firmly. Train the canes in a fan by tying them to wires, preferably old telephone wires, stretched at 2-ft. intervals between 5-ft. tall poles set 8 ft. apart—the base of the poles should have been treated with Cuprinol before being driven 2 ft. into the ground.

If the loganberries are planted in Nov-ember, cut the canes in early spring to just above a bud and to within 6 in. of soil level. If they are planted in May prune them in a similar manner immediately after planting.

Loganberries in blossom

Image via Wikipedia

FEEDING

As loganberries produce long fruit-bearing canes every year and are gross feeders, it is necessary to be liberal with compost. Place straw between the rows to a depth of l ft. and to a depth of l in. among the plants. Every year, in late February, apply 3 oz. fish manure per sq. yd. over the straw.

If the canes do not seem to be growing strongly enough, give them a second dressing of fish fertilizer all over the ground in October.

PRUNING

Prune as soon after picking as possible. When the canes have first fruited, cut them away to soil level. If the canes are pruned down only to within, say, 6 in. of the soil, the ‘snags’ that are left are apt to become a source of disease.

TRAINING

As a result of the disease known as cane spot, two special systems of training have been devised to prevent the disease spores from dropping from the old wood on to the new.

The new canes can either be taken up the wires as the central parts of the fan and tied to the top wire, or the old wood can be trained on one side of the fan and the new wood on the other.

The advantage of the latter system is that the new canes stay in the position in which they were originally tied until they have finished fruiting; as canes grown by this system should be planted 12 ft. apart, they need a great deal of room.

PROPAGATION

In the middle of July choose two strong young canes from each plant and, without separating them from the plant, bend them down and bury the top 2 in. of each cane in the soil within 2 or 3 ft. of the parent plant. The tips of these canes will continue to grow and will push their way up through the soil, while the portions that are buried will send out roots. In the middle of November cut out the old canes at a point 2 in. above soil level. Then tie canes used for propagation to the wires and leave the tips that have rooted until early April, when they can be lifted and moved to the place where they are to grow.

Transplanting is made easier if a 6-in. peat pot filled with Eclipse No-soil Compost or John Innes potting compost No. 1 is buried in the soil and the tip of the cane is inserted into the pot. The new roots will then be produced in the pot, which can easily be dug up again the following April.

HARVESTING

Pick the loganberries each day as the individual berries become firm and ripe. It is unwise to leave berries on the canes to get soft. The reason for this is that if left longer moulds may be troublesome.

Recommended Varieties of Loganberry

The true loganberry. Large, conical drooping fruits. Easy to pick. Very juicy. Ripens in July and produces fruit for many weeks. Hardy. Heavy cropper.

Thornless loganberry. Deliciously flavoured and excellent for jam. Not so vigorous as the true loganberry, but easier to train because it is thornless.

09. February 2012 by Dave Pinkney
Categories: Berries, Fruit & Veg | Tags: , , , | Comments Off on Growing Loganberries

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